Hi Rick,

Nope, you were not dreaming.  There are people who argue using a heavier line on a lighter weight rod.  With the exception of two possibilities, I think it's stupid.  The two exceptions include: (1) the rod maker was drunk and didn't correctly put the right line with the right rod, and (2) if the cast needs to be short - say within 30-feet - and the rod will not otherwise load.  (If you know how to tip cast, however, the last one doesn't hold water.)

Why does anyone advocate "overlining?"  I suppose you could call it "marketing."  Whiz-Banger Big names in fly fishing get paid for saying things that may, in fact, be "embellishments" of the truth.  For example, it's much easier to teach someone new to the sport how to fly cast by overlining because the heavier line makes the rod load with less line out.  The instructor than pronounces, "You've got it!", collects the money, and waits for the next client.

The fact is I teach folks to "underline" the rod - that is use a line weight lighter than the rod's rating -- especially when going for distance or wind-fighting.  Otherwise, use the line weight the rod is rated for.  But funny things can happen.  My wife bought me a used Orvis Madison bamboo rated for a 6-weight line.  One cast with a 6-weight told me I could easily break the rod.  I dropped down to a 5-weight with much better results, but the rod was still loading too heavily if the cast was beyond 60-feet.  I found happiness when I dropped down even further to a 4-weight. If you review what I've had to say in the series, "All About Lines," focus on the AFTMA standards for line weight as measured in grains remembering that each listed weight is for the first 30-feet of the fly line - only.  But, if you have aerialized 60-feet of line, what is weight - or loading - place on the rod???  Neither of us knows!  Keep in mind that the rod is nothing more than a launch platform designed to catapult an "X" value in line-weight into the sir.  When "X" becomes too heavy, trouble awaits...

Nothing wrong with going with an 8-weight rod for the fish you mention.  If I had one suggestion, I would make it a fast 8-weight.  A fast rod will aid you in wind-fighting when others want to leave the water.  Just be sure to watch your backcast and keep your casts low into the wind.

As for the Battenkill IV, I have absolutely no experience with the reel.  However, The BBS IV (bar stock) has an offset disk drag.  If I were going after Atlantic salmon, I think I would prefer a full disk drag.  However, if Orvis says it's o.k., I'm sure it is.  One thing is sure: Orvis backs its products.

Now a word or two about drags (plural).  Besides the one built into the reel, there are a couple of others in play whenever you've hooked a large fish:  (1)  Once in the water, the line itself becomes a drag -- especially when the fish turns to one side or the other putting a curve in the line; (2) When the fish takes all your line and into the backing, the drag increases without regard to the reel's setting.  Remember, most fly reels operate on a 1:1 ratio, meaning that one revolution of the spool yields the amount of line in inches held in the circumference of the spool, at that point. In other words, a drag setting on a fully loaded reel spool automatically increases as the line is stripped off and you near the hub.

Hope this info blows away the smoke ...

Doug Macnair